A Long Weekend in New York City

By Mary Alice Kellogg

New York is the most energetic and trend-forward place on the planet.

“New York is nothing like Paris; it is nothing like London; and it is not Spokane multiplied by sixty, or Detroit multiplied by four. It is by all odds the loftiest of cities,” wrote E.B. White in his iconic Here is New York. New York is the most energetic and trend-forward place on the planet. There truly is no place like it.

The mere prospect of trying to discover the most energetic chambers of its heart in a long weekend might seem daunting at first, but it can be done, trust me. Grabbing all the gusto in the vibrant and welcoming capital of fashion, style, culture and fun—where even lifelong residents discover new facets daily—is as simple as knowing where to go … and what time to arrive. With more restaurants, bars, nightclubs, shopping and cachet per square block than perhaps anywhere else in the world, New York is surprisingly easy to navigate like an insider and, as we shall see, to explore it with one as well.

First order of business: Get the lay of the land, and experience the fact that in New York even a building can be declared hip or passé. So skip the endless queue at the observation deck of the so-been-there-done-that Empire State Building. Instead, get yourself to the Top of the Rock at Rockefeller Center in Midtown Manhattan for the truly best view in town. Buy a ticket for a specific time (yep, no waiting!) and zoom to the Art Deco roof for a breathtaking and glam vista, which includes the Empire State Building in the frame. There—your first photo op.

New York has scads of museums, of course, but two in particular are must-sees for if only for buzz-bragging rights. Before you leave Midtown—and you must—The Museum of Modern Art (insider tip: start at the top and work down for the best views and smaller crowds) remains the go-to venue for the best of contemporary art, sculpture and design. To see the art superstars of the future, be in the avant-garde by going downtown to the recently opened New Museum. A futuristic architectural stunner, it glows outside as well as in. Of course, no visit is complete without giving your regards to a Broadway play or musical; since time is money in New York, skip the TKTS booth’s interminable lines and go directly to the box office. For lunch or dinner, theater goers and nonthespians alike hit the energetic scene at Café Un Deux Trois, a bustling brasserie in the heart of Times Square.

Where to stay? The possibilities are, well, if not endless, then they’re certainly stunning in their variety, so here are a pair of suggestions sure to register on the cool meter. Skip the convention-clogged mega-hotels of Midtown and make your home in a happening neighborhood, where you’ll meet local trendsetters lunching and taking advantage of cocktail hour. Choose the W New York Union Square to be near abundant shopping on Lower Fifth Avenue and the Flatiron District’s many top eateries. For edgy cool, the Hotel Gansevoort in the Meatpacking District is in the heart of this funky neighborhood (more on this locale a bit later) of fashionistas, shopping, art galleries and late-late nightlife. The Gansevoort’s rooftop swimming pool just happens to have one of the sweetest views in all the city. Be sure to wave to the celebrities at the private SoHo House pool right across the street.

Of course, what’s night life in the City That Never Sleeps without music? Variety, as usual, rules. Don’t forget that jazz—the original definition of cool music—has made its home downtown for decades, with loads of intimate clubs in Greenwich Village; Tenth Street between Bleecker and Waverly has at least six. True devotees will make a pilgrimage to the iconic Village Vanguard, now in its seventh decade of showcasing the world’s best.

Speaking of Greenwich Village, this historic neighborhood of sidewalk cafes, artists and writers has morphed into Celebrity Central (Julianne Moore and Sarah Jessica Parker are among the high-profile residents), and it’s become one of the hottest dining destinations in New York. Chefs with bold-faced names have flocked here in the last few years, opening small restaurants to showcase their talents, and the scene positively hums. After all, in New York, dining out isn’t a luxury; it’s a national sport. At August, you’ll find award-winning modern Mediterranean cuisine in a cozy dining room. Be sure to check out the glassed-in garden out back, too. Close your eyes and you’re in Paris at A.O.C., the perfect French bistro, complete with a large outdoor garden, for breakfast, lunch and dinner.Celebs and Gothomites chow down on innovative Southwest-inspired cuisine at local fave Miracle Bar & Grill, where’s free live jazz is served up on Thursday nights.

If it’s shopping you crave, look no further than Bleecker Street between Hudson and Seventh Avenues. Formerly a stretch of offbeat boutiques, the narrow-tree-lined street has evolved into a major shopping destination rivaling Madison Avenue. Along this five-block stretch you’ll find five different Marc Jacobs boutiques, four Ralph Lauren stores, a Tommy Hilfiger outpost, plus cutting-edge fashion at Intermix and Olive + Bette’s, and Euro-savvy shoes and accessories at Verve. The only Lulu Guinness and Cynthia Rowley boutiques in the United States are here, as well as the Coach Legend store where you’ll find accessories, leather goods and jewelry in one-of-a-kind or limited editions not to be found at any other Coach store in the world.

For nightlife, the aforementioned Meatpacking District firmly downtown is white-hot, with cutting-edge art galleries and shops that stay open late. This is the place hip New York plays from sundown to practically sunrise. The liveliest bar in town—and one with the best view—is Plunge (atop the Hotel Gansevoort), the home of sunset cocktails and a stirring late-night lounge scene. Just across the street, dine with models, tycoons and designers a la Francaise at Pastis, or sample serious Italian trattoria food with a chic twist at Vento. Afterwards, conveniently segue downstairs to Level V, the city’s hippest post-dinner lounge. However, a few blocks away, in Chelsea, is Suzie Wong—the hottest hot spot for late, late, late night revelry. This intimate club, known for its innovative sake-based cocktails, really heats up after hours with one of New York’s best DJs rockin’ the house with an eclectic mix of tunes that ranges from Ozzie to Jay-Z.

Thrilling as it is to set out on your own, perhaps the best way to make New York truly your own is to enlist a local. Don’t know any?

No problem: For 16 years, Big Apple Greeters has been uniting visitors and New Yorkers. Go to the website with the dates you plan to visit, pick the neighborhood you want to explore, and tell them what your interests are—architecture, shopping, dining, clubbing, etc. You’ll be matched with a real New Yorker with the same interests who can show you the city as only an insider who’s on your wavelength can. The service is free, the experience—like the city itself—absolutely priceless.
Tasting the Big Apple

Top of the Rock

Rockefeller Ctr. @ 50th Street

212-698-2000

www.topoftherocknyc.com

New Museum

235 Bowery

212-219-1222

www.newmuseum.org

The Museum of Modern Art

11 W. 53rd Street

212-708-9400

www.moma.org